4) Basic Shading and Grouping Layers

Shading is where it gets good. Shading makes images three-dimensional. I like to start shading on the skin layer first, so I'll go from there. Above the skin layer (layer 1) I insert a new layer. Then I "group" it to the layer beneath by pressing control+g (in photoshop CSII, this is called "clipping mask" and the short cut is "control+alt+g"). Grouping this onto the skin layer means that any color I put on the new layer will only show up where that color on the skin. So I can be as messy as I want. Which I quite am in this step.

I shade using an elliptical brush at 100% hardness and 1% spacing. These values can be changed in the "brushes" tab. I also use dark colors at a high saturation. The shading below is in a dark blue because it's night, but the grouped layer is set to 60% opacity so it wouldn't be too dark.

It's very important at this step to have a defined light source, and to always stick to it. Nothing looks weirder than skin shaded in one direction and clothes in the other. In this step, I also shade MORE than what I want, because the next step is erasing it.

5) Solidifying the Shadows

After all the shadows have been added to all the grouped layers, I go back in with an eraser (with the same settings as the brush used to shade) and sharpen it up. It is very important in this step to realize that the shadows must follow the contour of the body. For example, the shadows on Talon's arms are not straight. They bend with his arm. Also, take into consideration that though you're working on a 2D image, it must follow 3D rules. Talon's arms leave shadows on his pants, and those shadows more than anything point to where the light source is.

 

6) Softening the Shadows

Unless the light source is either very close or very strong, shadows don't have defined edges. They fade into the light areas, sometimes slowly, and sometimes fast. I soften my shadows with a brush at 1% hardness, 1% spacing and 50% opacity, with the same color and on the same layer as the hard shadows. Because the brush isn't at 100% opacity, I can go over areas that should be darker but still keep it soft.